Meet the team

I arrived in Nevşehir on Friday morning and met everyone who will be on the ride.  There are a dozen of us in total, five of whom are the organising team.  Of the rest of us, four have limited experience on a horse, so I’m feeling a lot better about being a total novice.

We’ve been getting acquainted with each other and the group is already gelling well, an important thing when you’re going to be camping and riding together for two weeks.  We’re a mixed bag: there’s a 28-year-old ex-US Navy student, a sculptor and painter, a documentary film-maker, a retiree who’s been swimming her way through the Mediterranean, and a veterinarian turned venture capitalist.

The ride organiser, Alexander, is a character.  He and his mate Marc, the team photographer, play off each other with their jokes.  Marc’s a Frenchman; Alexander is American, and speaks four languages.  The others in the organising team are from the ranch supplying the horses – Ercihan, the Turkish ranch owner, and two ride leaders: South African Susan and Brit Alex.

Noise pollution

When you get an electrician out to fix your faulty kitchen light, he doesn't provide a commentary on the gauge of wire he is using or what size amp fuse he'll break the circuit with. You trust that you hired a qualified technician and he knows what he's doing, and he shuts up and gets on with it.

So why do aircraft pilots insist on giving us updates on the altitude and cruising speed and temperature and head wind and tail wind? Yes? We're in the air, right? You can tell me when we get there, and I'll probably already have a good idea of that anyway.

Damn it!

I'm so stupid. I had a beautiful pocket knife which was a gift. For my flight to Nevşehir to meet the Relief Riders, I forgot to pack it in my check-in luggage and it was confiscated! I'm so unhappy about it.

G'day! F*** you.

I must be careful about hand signals.  One of the first things I did on arriving in Istanbul was give a thumbs-up (one thumb, that is -- Aussie for "good") to the shuttle bus driver collecting me from the airport.  In Greece and some Middle East countries (between which two regions Turkey sits) it means "fuck you."  Istanbul is cosmopolitan enough for it to be safe, but I have to get out of the habit while I'm travelling.  The other Aussie favourite, the forefinger-and-thumb circle for OK, would call a Greek a poofter.

Turkish Airlines

Wow.  Turkish Airlines hands out ear plugs, eye masks and in-flight socks to the passengers.  Who does that anymore? Clearly nobody, as I just got excited over ear plugs, eye masks and in-flight socks.  Shame their seats are garish turquoise and they make their stewardesses wear frumpy tunics.

Half chaps and jodhpurs

Well, this is going to be interesting.

Just picked up some riding gear for the trip: a helmet (mandatory) and some half chaps—zippered gaitors that fit snug around the calves.  I told the bloke at the shop I was going on a two-week horse riding trek and am a complete beginner.  His face said it all: "You sucker city slicker.  You're in for a world of hurt."

I told the bloke I just wanted the cheapest.  This ride is getting more and more expensive (fellow city slickers, don't take up riding if you're saving for a house).  The organiser of the ride suggested bringing jodhpurs (tights for horseback, like bike pants), but I told the bloke at the shop I hoped to just get away with jeans.  "An hour in the saddle—fine," he said.  "All day riding for two weeks?  You're going to lose all the hairs on the inside of your legs, saddle sores, ingrown hairs... mate, you will be ready to trade your eye-teeth for jodhpurs."

Maybe he was motivated to make a sale, or maybe he just wanted to see me in tight pants (this is where I mention the bloke was gay), but I was convinced.  Or afraid.  Anyway, I bought the jodhpurs.

Quanti giorni manca?

II have been inspired to go to Italy.  It wasn't on my original itinerary, but from northern Greece to Puglia it's quite close.  Anyway, my itinerary was so focussed on Eastern Europe that I was needing some Romance.  Italy will do  nicely.  I've deliberately left my plans open, so maybe I'll drop Romania (which was in question anyway for time) and do southern Italy properly.  Why not?  Lecce.  Napoli.  And Pompeii!  It's an adventure.

First lesson

When I signed up for the horse riding trek, I told the organiser I was a beginner. Only later did he realise what I meant by that.

"Uh...  you better get some lessons," he said.

So, Sunday was my first ride. It was just around the ring, but the instructor said she was very impressed. Years of correct posture and yoga paid dividends and I was trotting comfortably in no time at all. Next week I'll get up to cantering, and in a few weeks' time I'm planning a weekend trail ride and camp.

But for now, I'm getting very well acquainted with some new muscles.

Relief

A few years ago I read about a charity organisation called Relief Riders, which transports medical supplies and expertise into rural areas of India on horseback.  It's funded as a horse riding trek for adventurous travellers looking for something different.  Paying guests volunteer to assist setting up the medical tents and register the villagers, and the medical supplies are subsidised by the cost of the tour.  I didn't have plans to visit India, but always thought if I did I would do the relief ride.

This year Relief Riders announced they will for the first time be riding in Turkey.  General medical care is much better in Turkey than it is in rural India but dental services are lacking.  The relief ride will provide dental treatment in villages in the dramatic region of Cappadocia where, as luck would have it, I was already heading.  Kismet?  So I've signed on.  The ride is from 17-30 June and visits the spectacular volcanic landscape of "fairy chimneys" (known in the US as hoodoos), tall spires of stone into which the Turkish locals fashioned houses from carved caves centuries ago.

I probably should mention that I don't know how to ride a horse.

Europe 2011

The Lead Line is stirring from slumber below deck as Europe returns on the horizon.

This year, beginning in mid-June, the feature country and starting point will be Turkey. After three weeks of horseback trekking, Roman ruins and dental surgery, I'll move onto finding Atlantis in the Greek islands, whitewater rafting in one of the world's deepest canyons in Montenegro, and discovering what there is to discover in Romania and Bulgaria.